Thursday, February 24, 2011

100 Jouneys Before I Die : 20-1 : Conclusion

Before I leave for Ahmedabad for 4 months of internship, here's a post to conclude my 100 journeys series. The score, as last time, is 13.


Without much ado:


20. The Lost Cave of Vietnam


Sample this : A recently discovered mammoth cave straight out of the wildest Indiana Jones and the Virgin Rainforest fantasies. National Geographic hasn't even finished surveying it yet. It helps that its in Vietnam - home to some exciting villes a la indochine (Hanoi and Saigon), apart from a string of excellent beaches and the spectacular Ha Long Bay.


The cave itself, christened Han Son Doong (Mountain River Cave) comes with its own rainforest, mountains and streams. I'm game. This is pure Indiana Jones / Lara Croft territory.



19. Honeymooning in Bora Bora


Who wouldn't? Yes its cliched and yes every celebrity worth his or her salt has romanced in this tropical paradise, but there's a darned good reason behind the same. This is eden as it was first imagined - a sparkling blue lagoon, a volcanic island, white sands, luxurious resorts, blah blah blah. 


And to stay? A million options to choose from. Aman's Bora Bora Hotel, Orient Express' Bora Bora Lagoon Resort and Spa, Four Seasons, St. Regis. Here's one place where I'm convinced I'm positively lost about making recommendations.



18. Carneval de Rio di Janeiro


If the most beautiful city in marke ting campaigns is not quite enough, there is the option of a million sexy Brazilians to satisfy all orientations going wild in the world's largest party. 


Copacabana Palace is the grande dame; Fasano is the vanguard.



17. The Silk Road


Don't expect luxury. For one, you're headed to little heard of and near dictatorial Uzbekistan. And then you end up in cities you'd vaguely remember from history. Bukhara, Khiva and Samarkand lead the pack in what promises to be a fascinating cultural circuit through this Central Asian wasteland : Three jeweled cities that were once the pride of the trading world and are now evocative towns crammed with architecture that I, for one, will never get bored with.


Authenticity? You won't find any reconverted mansions a la Damascus in these places : You still have the option of camping it out in a Medresse or a Serai!



16. Adriatic Cruise


Probably the last bit of sunkissed coast in Europe, and its the most stunning at that. Think cliffs, turquoise waters, sandy coves and medieval ports; and a nifty little yacht to ferry you between all of them. You can start off at Venice, and sail on to Athens (Piraeus) by way of Trieste (Italy), Piran (Slovenia),  numberless Croatian (Brac, Hvar, Bag, Dubrovnik), Montenegrin (Sveti Stefan, Kotor) and Greek islands (Cephalonia, Corfu). Lots of fancy places en route, including the Aman at Sveti Stefan.



15. Nanda Devi and the Valley of Flowers


The Valley of Flowers is romantic enough : A lost, misty valley covered with a seasonal swathe of wildflowers. Add to that the Nanda Devi preservation zone which is one of the last bits of pretty Himalayan territory left (so much so that entry into the zone has only recently been allowed with not more than 20 visitors into the park at a time). This is wild at one if ts bests.



14. Bhutan


Thank god for restrictions : the cap on foreign tourists means that Bhutan retains its esoteric Buddhist enclave in misty and lofty mountains charm. The country is impossibly pretty, the culture impossibly charming, and the hotels impossibly luxe. Amankora, Uma Paro and Taj Tashi are star offerings.




13. Stargazing in the Atacama


Two rainless centuries mean that the Atacama has the clearest sky on earth and the most picturesque desert to boot. Landscapes here are often suspected to have staged clips of the NASA Moon Mission, and places like Valley of the Moon up the extraterrestrial ante. The landscape opens up to a vast, unhindered sky with the best stargazing possible on earth.


Explora en Atacama's lodge is an amazing place to be in, but there is a fast growing clutch of stargazing retreats.



12. Hiking through Arunachal Pradesh


This is India's Shangri-La. Rainforests hugging steep mountains above tumoltous streams crossed by root bridges to semi nomadic tribal settlements that move to avoid winter snow and share a deep faith in the lofty Tawang monastery set amid pine forests and glacial lakes parts of which are part of amazingly diverse national parks like Namdapha. Whew.


Arunachal is virgin territory. These are untouched forests, unclimbed mountains, uncharted rivers, un-documented peoples we're talking about, and if that isn't enough, the place is spectacularly beautiful to boot.




11. Pangong Tso by the Full Moon


Three Idiots nearly signed the lake's death certificate by turning this superbly picturesque lake into a bonafide safari destination in Ladakh. All is not yet lost, though, as visitor amounts remain regulated and the crowds vanish by dusk. Time your trip to a full moon and you might just be camping in the most ethereal spot on the planet.



10. Bungee Jumping at Victoria Falls


Can it get any better? this 111 metre jump uses the falls as a backdrop and is arguably the most thrilling one available. Not only does this mean travelling to the quintessential 'Once Upon a Time in Africa' locales, you get to see a natural wonder and experience it in a way like no other.


Add to that are amazing luxury hotels strewn on both sides of the falls, like the colonial era Royal Livingstone.



09. Meet a Geisha in Kyoto


The Japanese fantasy makes it to Number 9. In simple terms, travel to Kyoto ('The Most Japanese of Japanese Cities'), soak in all things Nippon and round it off with a delicate tea ceremony hosted by a Geisha. Culture curry indeed.


Junk the luxurious hotel. Opt for a luxurious Ryokan, a traditional lodge. Think total zen : tatami floors, wood soak tubs, delicate gardens, futons and so on. Tawaraya is the pick, being old, famous and oh-so-luxe.



08. Horseback Riding in Patagonia


A  spectacular windswept landscape that sits amid mountains, glaciers, stormy seas and absolute desolation? I'm game. Straddling across Chile and Argentina, Patagonia is positively awe-inspiring and equally rewarding. Its rich history of ranching makes it an amazing place to hone your equestrian skills.


Explora en Patagonia Hotel Salto Chico is the darling of regional awards, and has an excellent equestrian holiday up its sleeve as well. And what to say about that jaw-dropping location...



07. Trek from Padum to Darcha


How do you get to Padum? Being at the heart of Zanskar, India's most isolated inhabited region, it means almost a week of continuous travel out of Delhi, by road, across the highest passes on earth. And that too for only 4 months a year. Once you do reach there and be numbed by the sheer scale of the landscape, you start trekking across it. En route are more spectacular landscapes, higher mountains, more desolation and awesome monasteries. Searching for Shangri-La? Well, you'd be walking right through it. This is a 7-8 day trek and fairly popular with those who have the will to reach the Zanskar valley. Warning, a new road promises to reduce the travel time by a day but it would also mean that unwanted tourist influx. Do it while you can.




06. Roadtrip through Spiti


Moving further south, this lost valley in the higher Himalayas escapes definition. Its surreal, to say the least, and a roadtrip through it is probably the biggest adventure of it all. Roads, at places, are literally carved out of vertical cliff faces. In other places, they dont exist at all. In still others, its a moonscape like stretch in small plain. The sky is endless, the mountains high, the air fresh. Throw in some nifty monasteries and some absolutely awesome lakes (the Chandratal) and you've got me shouting Woah! Again, this is a place which is reachable for only 4 months a year. Shangri-La list extended.



05.  Basejumping at Geirangerfjord


Being one of the largest Nordic fiords give Geirangerfiord some veritable credibility. Once you reach it and appreciate its raw beauty, you can choose to jump off it. Try BASE jumping, the simple act of freefalling off a reasonably high position and the parachuting off to safety. You can't do it alone, and training procedures are very rigorous. Find a trainer and away you go. 


The Juvet landscape hotel is not exactly nearby, but is arguably the most amazing fiord-stay you can find, with its collection of hi-design timber boxes with picture windows seemingly plonked in the heart of Nordic wilderness.



04. Feeding Penguins in Antarctica


I like how they walk. Plus, they mean heading to Antarctica. If there is any virgin territory left on earth, it is this. And though it'll probably kill me, I'd like to make it in winter to be able to catch Aurora Australis. The sheer geology of the frozen continent leaves many wonders up for exploration, if you do manage it somehow. 



03. The Yarlung Tsangpo Gorge


The Tsangpo originates in Tibet and follows a linear path across it to suddenly take a U-turn and swing into India, becoming the Brahmaputra, descending almost 4000 metres in a tiny speck on the map. This is one of the least explored places on earth, the gorge rumoured to be the largest, and the landscape legendary. Few expeditions teams have crossed it, and they don't have a high mortality rate to boast of either. My appetite is whetted.



02. Mansarovar Yatra


Dream of the devout? I'd come solely for the landscape and the cult. Venturing into Tibet to the holy mountain and see its reflection in the lakes below. To add to the mystique are the origins of the lake : the virtuous Mansarovar, and its twin, the antichrist, Rakshastal. This place is surreal, literally.



01. Chadar Trek


To cap my fascination with Trans Himalayan traverses, there's the Chadar Trek. In the winter, the Zanskar river freezes (as does the whole of Ladakh and Zanskar). While temperatures dip 20 to 30 degrees below 0, the people come out and celebrate a multitude of festivals (while being locked to the outside world). And while Zanskar slips into icy desolation, the frozen river turns into an icy highway connecting it to the bigger towns of Ladakh and the Indus Valley. The intrepid fly in and attempt a two-week long walk in and out of the valley on the frozen Zanskar. You sleep in caves behind frozen waterfalls, battle breaking chunks of ice, and discover a winter landscape like no other.



Ta-Da

That wraps up the 100 journeys I so want to take. Hopefully this summer will help me wrap up most of my Himalayan desires.

Now, I leave for Ahmedabad for a 4 month training. Lots of sidetrips expected. Luxe-ist, as is cheesily said, will be back!










Saturday, February 5, 2011

100 journeys before i die : 30-21

Entering the top 30. From now on, my score remains at a measly 13/100.


30. The Trans Siberian Railway






If it still isn't glaringly clear that I'm a railway buff, then this should do the trick. Possibly the most epic rail journey on earth, from St. Petersburg on the Atlantic (Baltic, to be more precise), to Vladivostok on the Pacific, across seven time zones and the desolation of SIberia. But the idea is to break the journey, discovering comrade Rossiya along it all. Thought the track officially starts at Moscow, one shouldn't miss St. Petersburg. Journey breaks at Moscow, Kazan and Irkutsk (Lake Baykal, No. 81 on this list).


However, this is no Orient Express. Think of it is Janta Express, but with a running time stretching well over a week. Intrepid travellers write of merry journeys with Vodka, Caviar and friendly Russians. This is authentic Russia, for those who have the time, will and liver (Vodka again). 


Hotels are redundant, but when in St. Petersburg, head for Rocco Forte's Astoria; while in Moscow Baltschug Kempinski or Park Hyatt Ararat should be attractive enough.


29. See a Whirling Dervish in Turkey




An excuse for Turkey? Istanbul. Kapadokya. Panukkale. Oleudeniz. Troy. Halicarnassus. Konya. Theres a whole lot to offer,


Mine's though, is a bit thematic. Turkey is the birthplace of Sufism. And that is one aspect of religion that has interested me for long. Mildly esoteric, wholly mystical. And there's probably no better way to experience it than see a live Whirling Dervish, while taking in the aromas of Anatolia.


Istanbul has some of the most fantastic hotels on earth - W and Park Hyatt Makcas Palas round off the edgy pack, while two Four Seasons (on the Bosphorus and the rave-reviewed Sultanhamet) provide more than the city's not-so-fair share of luxury. Sumahan on the Water satisfies the intellectual, boutique-y kind, while Les Ottomons does the same with a themed environment plonked midway across the Bosphorus. Kempinski's Ciragan Palace is one of the grande dames. (Another great reason to head off to the place!)


28. Cast Away in the Andamans




After Railways, I'm a sucker for virgin tropical paradises. And that is precisely how Andamans landed in at number 28 - a string of pristine (barring a few) islands a hop from the country's eastern coast. No hordes of fat, scantily clad tourists, no hippie hangovers, no concrete bungalows, and a full roster of indigenous tribes (many still hostile) to boot. Just stretches of verdant green next to white sand melting into turquoise waters above rainbow corals and below fiery sunsets. All I need to do is tone my fat ass so as to not destroy the near perfect picture.


Most of the islands need permits to visit, but the trouble is worth the result. If you do like your creature comforts, then Barefoot on Havelock Island should be appropriate. Expect no suites - only comfortable cabanas on an island that feels uninhabited. Beware though, Havelock may be spectacular, but it is fast becoming the open secret of the Andamans. The beaches, though, still lack names and are referred to as numbers. Beach Number 5 or Radhanagar Beach was ranked the best on the continent, to the delight of mainland Media.


27. Aurora Borealis






You haven't seen daylight in 24 hours. Around you is a vast swathe of snow, and you're nearly disappointed that Santa's workshop didn't pop out behind that flake-covered pine. Suddenly the sky lights up in a vibrancy that leaves you breathless. Welcome to Lappland, the most accesible way to view the spectacular phenomenon that is Aurora Borealis, or the Northern Lights. The colour-waves in the sky are a result of some Atmospheric conditions, but they are a stunner.


Lappland is territory distributed across the northern end of Scandinavia, well above the Arctic circle, and Aurora is a winter phenomenon. That means cold, and how. But you will be amply supplied with basic but high quality accomodation throughout the Lapp areas of Norway, Sweden and Finland.


26. Mount Kilimanjaro




Yes, it still snows there, but experts warn it might not a couple of decades later. Anyhow, Mount Kilimanjaro is a great excuse for multiple causes - trampling through the wilds of Tanzania (Ngorongoro Crater came in at number 43), even making that trip to exotic Zanzibar. But for all adventure's sakes, here's probably your only chance at scaling a high mountain with slightly more effort than a simple hike. Guides and porters are available aplenty for your ascent throught rainforests to snow on top of famed Mount Kilimanjaro.


This being the heart of the Kenyan wilderness, you have a clutch of some of the finest safari lodges on earth to choose from.


25. Maoi Statues of Easter Island




I confess, I've had this one since my Johnny Quest days. An end-of-the-world island with the oh-so-mysterious megaliths. Now I just need to find that hidden portal to the fourth dimension and whirr away on my hoverboard. Virtual insanities aside, the Islands are pretty and probably one of the few in the pacific which have more to them than the sun-sand-tribals routine.


Explora offers a superb Rapa Nui Lodge which virtually eliminates competition and its need.


24. Persepolis




Evocative, to say the least. Simply put, packing up and heading to the once-capital of the persian empire, and be lost photographing the remains.


You'll have to base yourself at nearby Shiraz, which has enough to keep you occupied. Hotels though, are more on the basic side.


23. Denali




Or as the non-native-americans know it, Mount McKinley, the highest in North America, in the heart of Alaska's fabulous desolation. Its awe-inspiring, to say the least. And beyond the mountain itself, theres the national park around it.


This is popular camping country, and reservations are 'highly recommended' for campgrounds. Alternatively, there are several lodges, in and around. Camp Denali and North Face Lodge are a combined setup that typify the American Rustic Aesthetic.


22. The Angel Falls




Frontrunner for the year-end's Natural 7 Wonders list, the Angel Falls remains the Amazonian dream - the world's highest waterfall hidden deep inside the rainforests, accidentally discovered by outsiders due to a crash landing. Whats more, camping is prohibited and the nearest place to stay is more like a one-size-fits-all facility. This is true back-country we're dealing with. And what a country!


21. Iceland




Fire and Ice, and a musician so nice. Not only is Iceland home to Bjork, its also a powerpacked island that squeezes in glaciers and volcanoes and has a generous sprinkling of glacial lakes, waterfalls, geysers and god knows what other geological brouhaha that exists. Hiking across the island is probably the best geological holiday you can get. Also, add the real Blue Lagoon - a series of hot pools that are the brightest blue and throw in them a horde of beautiful Scandinavians. 


The capital, Reykjavik, has a clutch of boutique hotels that compliment its corruption-free and super-safe lifestyle (mothers are known to leave babies in prams outside in the sun while enjoying a manicure in the salon; even the president is listed in the yellow pages). Prime among these is 101 Hotel.