Hangover

Hangovers in the hospitality world. Basically heritage structures, adapted as modern hotels. Here's looking at those who are the most succesful. And later, a look at the one;s who were least. Indian properties only.

Success Stories

1. Le Dupleix, Pondicherry

The best place in the pretty de la Cite. A converted mansion which is chic in the creole sense. French and Tamil influences filter down to a very likeable traditional chic through this intimate little hotel which has now become the toast of town. Speaking of toast, the food is supposedly delightful. At around 5k per night, its excellent value for money. 

2. The Malabar House, Kochi

As intimate a place as any. A colonial mansion in Fort Kochi, coupled with all the trappings of a boutique hotel. The hotel pushes all the right buttons - a sexy pool, traditional elements, contemporary outlook and the perfect amount of exclusivity that makes it border on obscurity but not quite. However, it is a tad expensive, and there are too few rooms to savour.

3. Devigarh, Delwara

All hail. The mother of all boutique hotels - heritage or otherwise, Devigarh is a legend in hospitality design. Previously a typically pretty Rajasthani Fort, it is still that. But deviating from the traditional stance of equating heritage forts and palaces with kitschy museums where people can sleep in, Devigarh is brazenly clean, sharp, minimalist, luxurious and all the other words that will make the designer in you inspired. Awesomeness redefined.

4. The Wildflower Hall, Mashobra

It'll never win contemporary design awards, but the traditionalism of the most luxurious hotel in all of the Himalayas has a lot to offer in 'theme design', if it may be called. Its a perfect colonial hangover, and all the more luxurious. Wood panellings, chandeliers, portraits of proud sahibs, fireplaces et al, and the most stunning views with each. This former hall of residence of Lord Kitchener will have the departed spirit wishing he were still alive.

5. Umaid Bhavan Palace, Jodhpur

Taj have been extremely temperamental in terms of design. While a few are excellently exemplary (Taj Mahal Bombay's quirkiness), others remain woefully idiotic (the Delhi Taj Mahal's eyesore-full lobby). At Umaid Bhavan, it hits all the right buttons by staying away from any. The iconic art deco architecture of the last grand palace of the world has been well maintained, and how. It is the most atmospheric period piece of luxury you can ever stay in. You'll end up feeling like that diva who ambles around in the bedsheet before finding her little black dress, or a marble tub in the centre of a grand bathroom to soak in.

The Fucked-ups

1. Neemrana Fort

Neemrana, to me, seems the most overhyped design accomplishment (if it truly is that) on the planet. There is absolutely nothing new or inspiring or even remotely engaging in this ramshackle collection of antique furniture amid a fort a lit by diwali lights. And its even more irritating once it comes to the prices. Its spartan at best, if not cheesy.

2. Taj Lake Palace, Udaipur

Agreed, its a heritage property, and that its the most jawdroppingly romantic hotel I could ever think of, but the kitschyness of it all is just homicidal. One would think he's paying just for staring at the wall paintings, or the well collected but overbearing collection of Jodhpur manufactured antiques. Its an excellent place, but with decor thats blown its acceptable top.

3. The Claridges, New Delhi

A well meant effort but a classic lost plot. This art deco gem on Aurungzeb Road has no seeming thread that binds the hotels decor together. The rooms aren't bad looking, but you wont expect that from a 50 year old veteran in the city's most exclusive district. Plain disappointing.

4. The Oberoi Grand, Kolkata

A hotel that needs a desperate facelift. Its an absolutely stunning hotel, in terms of both service and ambience, but where Wildflower Hall succeeds, the historic Grand falls squat on its face. Yes, its supposed to be understandably themed to its history, but not to the point of outdatedness.

5. The Raj Palace, Jaipur

Another classic case of a hotel that draws guests by promising them more kitsch than sex could ever be. Its just over the top. It suffocates you with all its 'painful recreation' of the 'decadence' of a bygone era. And to say that the world's most expensive suite has a ferrari bathroom is seemingly pointless, as the miniature painting behind the bedstead is just too eyecatching to allow ferrari its moments. An insult to discerning taste, the place is perfect for halfwit westerners who are looking for an excuse to show off their wealth.