Saturday, February 5, 2011

100 journeys before i die : 30-21

Entering the top 30. From now on, my score remains at a measly 13/100.


30. The Trans Siberian Railway






If it still isn't glaringly clear that I'm a railway buff, then this should do the trick. Possibly the most epic rail journey on earth, from St. Petersburg on the Atlantic (Baltic, to be more precise), to Vladivostok on the Pacific, across seven time zones and the desolation of SIberia. But the idea is to break the journey, discovering comrade Rossiya along it all. Thought the track officially starts at Moscow, one shouldn't miss St. Petersburg. Journey breaks at Moscow, Kazan and Irkutsk (Lake Baykal, No. 81 on this list).


However, this is no Orient Express. Think of it is Janta Express, but with a running time stretching well over a week. Intrepid travellers write of merry journeys with Vodka, Caviar and friendly Russians. This is authentic Russia, for those who have the time, will and liver (Vodka again). 


Hotels are redundant, but when in St. Petersburg, head for Rocco Forte's Astoria; while in Moscow Baltschug Kempinski or Park Hyatt Ararat should be attractive enough.


29. See a Whirling Dervish in Turkey




An excuse for Turkey? Istanbul. Kapadokya. Panukkale. Oleudeniz. Troy. Halicarnassus. Konya. Theres a whole lot to offer,


Mine's though, is a bit thematic. Turkey is the birthplace of Sufism. And that is one aspect of religion that has interested me for long. Mildly esoteric, wholly mystical. And there's probably no better way to experience it than see a live Whirling Dervish, while taking in the aromas of Anatolia.


Istanbul has some of the most fantastic hotels on earth - W and Park Hyatt Makcas Palas round off the edgy pack, while two Four Seasons (on the Bosphorus and the rave-reviewed Sultanhamet) provide more than the city's not-so-fair share of luxury. Sumahan on the Water satisfies the intellectual, boutique-y kind, while Les Ottomons does the same with a themed environment plonked midway across the Bosphorus. Kempinski's Ciragan Palace is one of the grande dames. (Another great reason to head off to the place!)


28. Cast Away in the Andamans




After Railways, I'm a sucker for virgin tropical paradises. And that is precisely how Andamans landed in at number 28 - a string of pristine (barring a few) islands a hop from the country's eastern coast. No hordes of fat, scantily clad tourists, no hippie hangovers, no concrete bungalows, and a full roster of indigenous tribes (many still hostile) to boot. Just stretches of verdant green next to white sand melting into turquoise waters above rainbow corals and below fiery sunsets. All I need to do is tone my fat ass so as to not destroy the near perfect picture.


Most of the islands need permits to visit, but the trouble is worth the result. If you do like your creature comforts, then Barefoot on Havelock Island should be appropriate. Expect no suites - only comfortable cabanas on an island that feels uninhabited. Beware though, Havelock may be spectacular, but it is fast becoming the open secret of the Andamans. The beaches, though, still lack names and are referred to as numbers. Beach Number 5 or Radhanagar Beach was ranked the best on the continent, to the delight of mainland Media.


27. Aurora Borealis






You haven't seen daylight in 24 hours. Around you is a vast swathe of snow, and you're nearly disappointed that Santa's workshop didn't pop out behind that flake-covered pine. Suddenly the sky lights up in a vibrancy that leaves you breathless. Welcome to Lappland, the most accesible way to view the spectacular phenomenon that is Aurora Borealis, or the Northern Lights. The colour-waves in the sky are a result of some Atmospheric conditions, but they are a stunner.


Lappland is territory distributed across the northern end of Scandinavia, well above the Arctic circle, and Aurora is a winter phenomenon. That means cold, and how. But you will be amply supplied with basic but high quality accomodation throughout the Lapp areas of Norway, Sweden and Finland.


26. Mount Kilimanjaro




Yes, it still snows there, but experts warn it might not a couple of decades later. Anyhow, Mount Kilimanjaro is a great excuse for multiple causes - trampling through the wilds of Tanzania (Ngorongoro Crater came in at number 43), even making that trip to exotic Zanzibar. But for all adventure's sakes, here's probably your only chance at scaling a high mountain with slightly more effort than a simple hike. Guides and porters are available aplenty for your ascent throught rainforests to snow on top of famed Mount Kilimanjaro.


This being the heart of the Kenyan wilderness, you have a clutch of some of the finest safari lodges on earth to choose from.


25. Maoi Statues of Easter Island




I confess, I've had this one since my Johnny Quest days. An end-of-the-world island with the oh-so-mysterious megaliths. Now I just need to find that hidden portal to the fourth dimension and whirr away on my hoverboard. Virtual insanities aside, the Islands are pretty and probably one of the few in the pacific which have more to them than the sun-sand-tribals routine.


Explora offers a superb Rapa Nui Lodge which virtually eliminates competition and its need.


24. Persepolis




Evocative, to say the least. Simply put, packing up and heading to the once-capital of the persian empire, and be lost photographing the remains.


You'll have to base yourself at nearby Shiraz, which has enough to keep you occupied. Hotels though, are more on the basic side.


23. Denali




Or as the non-native-americans know it, Mount McKinley, the highest in North America, in the heart of Alaska's fabulous desolation. Its awe-inspiring, to say the least. And beyond the mountain itself, theres the national park around it.


This is popular camping country, and reservations are 'highly recommended' for campgrounds. Alternatively, there are several lodges, in and around. Camp Denali and North Face Lodge are a combined setup that typify the American Rustic Aesthetic.


22. The Angel Falls




Frontrunner for the year-end's Natural 7 Wonders list, the Angel Falls remains the Amazonian dream - the world's highest waterfall hidden deep inside the rainforests, accidentally discovered by outsiders due to a crash landing. Whats more, camping is prohibited and the nearest place to stay is more like a one-size-fits-all facility. This is true back-country we're dealing with. And what a country!


21. Iceland




Fire and Ice, and a musician so nice. Not only is Iceland home to Bjork, its also a powerpacked island that squeezes in glaciers and volcanoes and has a generous sprinkling of glacial lakes, waterfalls, geysers and god knows what other geological brouhaha that exists. Hiking across the island is probably the best geological holiday you can get. Also, add the real Blue Lagoon - a series of hot pools that are the brightest blue and throw in them a horde of beautiful Scandinavians. 


The capital, Reykjavik, has a clutch of boutique hotels that compliment its corruption-free and super-safe lifestyle (mothers are known to leave babies in prams outside in the sun while enjoying a manicure in the salon; even the president is listed in the yellow pages). Prime among these is 101 Hotel.

Saturday, December 25, 2010

100 journeys before i die : 40-31

Now, inching closer to even more hallowed ground.

40. The Great Barrier Reef

After all, it is the largest reef system on earth. Snorkel, Yacht, or just Beach it.

And the options for staying are heavenly. Hayman, Lizard Island and Bedarra are just a little bit of the cream of the crop. There's also a more mainstream Palazzo Versace at the more touristy Gold Coast.




39. South Island Hiking Trip

When you hear that this is the best that one of the world's most scenic countries can offer, your appetite is whetted. Simply put, Hike across New Zealand's South Island, taking in hills, snow, picture perfect lakes and awe inspiring fiords all along the way.

Blanket Bay is the South Island luxe headquarters.



38. Camel Safari to Petra

An ancient city hidden in the deserts? Exotic enough? Another Indiana Jones  fantasy - a safari a la bedouin through the Jordanian desert to Petra.

There's a clutch of family-style resorts like the unimaginative Movenpick Resort, but places like Feynan Eco-Resort promise to offer more authentic experiences. 




37. Fishing in Los Roques


This Venezuelan Archipelago promises two idyllic things - beautiful women (Venezuela!) and beautiful beaches (The Carribean!). Imagine coral islands with turquoise waters and white sands, with laid back shacks and absolute freedom from organized tourism. While that does mean an obvious lack of high end resorts, it also means that one of the last island paradises on earth remains that way. As for fishing, veggies like me can let go of the fish after a catch, carnivores can carry their earnings to the shack and get it cooked.


Beach shacks with rooms. The only way to go.



36. Deserted in the Lakshadweep


Another island paradise, but this time in our own backyard. While the Maldives rope in the world, the Lakshadweep remain calmer, more pristine. Twice the beauty, half the hype.


Nothing much to choose from. The amazingly overpriced Bangaram Island Resort offers a very spartan but decent stock to put yourself up in.



35. Hiking to Machu Pichu


The lost city of the Incas, high in the Andes, covered in mist, shrouded in Mystery. Boy, am I a sucker for Indiana Jones fantasies.


Cusco, nearby, is the base for Machu Pichu expeditions. Here, you should head straight to the fantastic Hotel Monasterio, but those prefering to be closer to the lost city can choose Monasterio's sister hotel, The Machu Pichu Sanctuary Lodge.



34. Trekking through Kinnaur


As you wind your way through Himachal's dusty and positively scary Sutlej valley, there comes a point where the hydel projects cease to appear, the valley is greener, the air thinner. You are in Kinnaur. Apart from awesome scenery and a hindu-buddhist cultural mix to interest many, Kinnaur offers the finest apples, and the achingly pretty Sangla Valley. Trekking routes abound, with starters like the Sangla Kanda trek through Sangla valley pastures, the Rupi Bhabha Wildlife Sanctuary Trek. More experienced trekkers can go for the religiously infused Kinner Kailash Parikrama and the Pin Parvati Pass Trek into neighbouring Spiti. Kinnaur is the best introduction to actually high mountains.


Not much to choose from apart from random guest houses in Kalpa and Recong Peo, or at Sangla. Sangla valley has a clutch of summer camps, notably Banjara Camp which is probably the only pedigreed place to stay upriver from Naldehra.



33. Island Hopping in Palau


Island paradise strikes again. This time, its a 'Blue Lagoon' like setting in the positively virgin islands of Palau, somewhere in the Pacific.


Largely all-inclusive resorts catering to Jap tourists, to choose from. Incongruous names like Palau Pacific and Palau Royal rule the roost here.



32. Shopping for Spices in Aleppo


Aleppo? Syria. Think of middle eastern mystique. Spice Souks, Muzzein Calls, Cul de Sacs, Crusader Castles, Roman Ruins... Think of Istanbul or Marrakech without the tourists, and double the atmosphere. Plus, Aleppo has more history than both.


Plenty of chic converted mansions to pick from, notably Mansouriya Palace Hotel.







31. Esfahan


The perfect city of the Islamic world, Esfahan has been famed for its beauty for generations at end, with poems going as far as to proclaim that the perfect suitor is one who has been to Esfahan, for he is both cultured and of able mental health. Thanks (or No Thanks?) to Iran's regime, Esfahan remains less plagued by tourist hordes, with only genuine travellers to accompany you as you discover the pleasures of the blue tiled mosques, the secret alleys, the friendly chais, the beautiful carpets...


The Abbassi hotel is amazingly famous for its setting in a reconverted Serai, and is full of all the kitsch you can hope to imagine.








Score - still, 13/60

Saturday, December 4, 2010

100 journeys before i die : 50-41

After a month long hiatus, its time to hit the top 50.


50. Sunbathing in the Seychelles


'Idyllic' fits the bill. Think of white sand beaches, lush forests, crystalline waters... add in life a la creole, and you're willingly stuck in paradise. 


The Four Seasons is the de facto hotelito supremo.


49. The Shinkansen


Another fast train fetish - the Jap bullet. Another excuse to amble around Japan. But mostly a means to get in that cliched Japanese picture - Mount Fuji in the background, you in a bullet somewhere in the centre and cherry blossoms at the fore. That means you should take a ride from Tokyo to Kyoto (also to fulfil a journey that will show up higher up on the list), or Osaka / Fukuoka / Hiroshima (basically anywhere west of Tokyo). Alternatively, head up north to Sapporo or Nagano to time your trip with some winter fun (both have been Winter Olympics hosts).


When in Tokyo, the Park Hyatt rules the always crumbly roost. Tough competition from a variety of players - Two Four Seasons, a Ritz-Carlton, a Peninsula, a Mandarin Oriental and so on.


48. The Sydney Harbour Bridge Climb


Simple enough. Climb the Sydney Harbour Bridge and take the most awesome photo of you life. 


Sydney has plenty of hotels to offer. The Park Hyatt has an awesome location on the waterfront between the opera house and the bridge. Others include Four Seasons and the demure The Observatory (with its famed franco-japanese fare), apart from the Blue, further away, but equally hep with its decor.


47. The Road to Timbuktu


Yes, Timbuktu exists, and so does the road to exotica. While Mali (the country) is no tourist paradise, its like a grail for the intrepid traveller. Beyond the mud walls of Timbuktu, head out and mix with the many tribes, rediscover the roots of voodoo in the day markets and just soak in the aroma of authentic Africana. Better still, rope in yourself with a nomadic safari through Mali, going through the regions of Mopti and Dogon, mixing the savannah with the sahara.


Don't expect too much in this last-outpost-of-exotica. Adequacy is the best find in the under-a-dozen hotels that offer air conditioned rooms and running hot and cold water.


46. Uluru


Or, as the non-aborigines better know it, Ayer's Rock, sitting bang in the centre of the Australian bushlands. Couple it with the now-touristified but reasonably nice aboriginal experiences on offer, and voila - best stargazing nights of your life.


A lot of luxe places dot the landscape, Longitude 131° being the best, as per international reviews.


45. Ferry Hopping across the Aegean Sea


That means the sun-kissed, white plastered, windmill-dotted, blue domed, hilly laned, empty beach-ed, oh-so-romantic Greek Islands.


A huge amount of places to stay, but go for Katakies on Mykonos, a local legend of sorts. But the best you can do is hire a superyacht and sail off with the young and pretty.


44. Antoni Gaudi's Barcelona


Which is definitely the most done-with way to see (IMO) the best city in western Europe. When you're done with gazing at the Sagrada Familia and loving the Parc Guell, take a trip to the other architectural marvels of the city - Montjuic Hill (with the positively supreme Barcelona Pavillion), Port Olimpic and Tibidabo Hill, along with the ever-inviting La Rambla. Take a cue from Vicky Cristina Barcelona, it helps.


Stay at the W, strongly reminiscent of the Burj al Arab, but exciting in its own right. Or, go for Gran Hotel la Florida, sitting silently on Tibidabo hill and offering the hi-life with awesome views.


43. Wildife in the Ngorongoro Crater


Africa and luxury very obviously translate to safaris and camps. Ngorongoro crater is a meteor formed depression with everything you can expect from the African savannah.


And that includes the near legendary Ngorongoro Crater Lodge to lighten your pockets at as well.


42. Play Tomb Raider at Angkor Wat


Fairly simple. Play out your Indian Jones / Lara Croft fantasies in the Jungle encroached ruins of Angkor. You can patch that up with lessons in Buddhism with monks, or boat house hopping on the massive Tonle Sap lake.


You really don't need to look elsewhere with Aman at hand. Go for Amansara. Plenty of others as well.


41. Italian Food on the Italian Coast


Is there a better way, still? While I've ogled my eyes out at the oh-so-pretty Cinque Terre, there are still places like Portofino and the Amalfi Coast (the place which most Hollywood movies show as a serpentine highway on a cliff-sea-side driven on by a lonely actress in a speedy car). La Dolce Vita, indeed.


Le Sirenuse in Positano and Hotel Splendido in Portofino are two of the best rated hotels in the country, both occupying pretty hillside locations with views of towns literally spilling down to the sea.




Score - 13/50

Saturday, November 6, 2010

100 journeys before i die : 60-51

the last entry completed the list from 100 to 61, with a score of 11 on 40. Now, for 60-51.


60. full moon over bhedaghat 


along a stretch of the narmada in madhya pradesh, you'll find the river lined by marble cliffs, plunge across the dhuandhar falls (the smoky falls) and play host to the ancient chausath yogini temple (a cult of the 64 priestesses legend). on a full moon night, the marble rocks gleam, while a raft flows down placidly along the river.


where to stay: jabalpur is the nearest spot to find a decent (but not luxurious) bed. the unimaginatively named narmada jackson is sposedly a heritage property.


59. buy original bastar metalware


while naxalites rule by the bullet and the state by inefficiencey, bastar and dantewara remain pristine and virgin forested lands, full of wildlife, spectacular waterfalls, deep caves and interesting indigenous tribal populations, that we now know through their crude but (personally speaking) beautiful metal figurines. time to give dilli haat a miss and head to the original.


where to stay : not much to choose from, but a couple of palaces have been converted into hotels, not great, but decent enough and they promise to organize safaris and tours with ease. check out kanker palace and kawardha palace.


58. gamelan concert in bali 


another personal irk (but this is my blog). gamelan is similar to a xylophone, but more exotic sounding. its a sort of orchestral performance, and the instrument is considered sacred. often accompanied by dances and puppet theatres. although its a huge attraction in itself, its basically an excuse to visit bali, the promised land of paddy terraces, pristine beaches and luxurious resorts.


where to stay : plenty, as bali will leave you scratching your head with choices galore. beachside hotels include the four seasons at jimbaran bay, the oberoi and bulgari resort. hinterland properties around ubud include uma ubud and four seasons at sayan.


57. see a bengal tiger in the sundarbans


if you haven't read 'the hungry tide' by amitav ghosh, please do. its not a literary achievement, but its very descriptive of the seductive beauty of the sundarbans - miles and miles of knotted rivers, lush mangrove forests, sleepy villages, noisy ferries and the elusive bengal tiger. also, a cyclone or two.


where to stay : sundarban tiger camp is the only 'star rated luxury camp' in west bengal, along with a range of river cruises that vary from comfy to garage dump.


56. study egyptian architecture 


doesn't really need any explanation.


where to stay : loads, considering this is a whole country to talk about. the nile cruiser option is attractive, with the oberoi running two - philae and zahra. also, the oberoi mena house is in view of the giza pyramids while the property at red sea is on the beachfront. the four seasons has two hotels in mystical cairo, one in alexandria and another one on the red sea at sharm el sheikh.


55. smoke a cuban cigar in havana 


cuban cigars apart, havana is in a colonial limbo - unabashed latin sexiness meets the magic of the carribean (cheesy, but seemingly true). imagine dilapidated colonial facades, sartorialist-like streets, vintage cars and you can also try out original mojitos to boot! 


where to stay : havana has quite a few heritage properties, the saratoga being a good looking and well praised choice.


54. cross a root bridge in meghalaya 


the root bridge is just an excuse for the journey. coming to the wettest part of the country, ambling through its glen like hills, meeting its exotic peoples, hearing the lively music-band scene, gazing out at misty waterfalls and lakes, being awed by sacred groves, and finally, crossing a natural bridge of overhanging roots.


where to stay : ri kynjai is located next to the pretty umiam lake, between shillong and cherrapunji, and is a very comfy arrangement of good looking cottages.


53. be pampered in maldives 


pretty little coral islands in the crystal clear sea topped by luxurious resorts and pamper-ful spas? i'm game.


where to stay : plenty. pick from two four seasons, huvafen fushi, soneva gili, taj exotica, one and only reethi rah...


52. get lost in the medina of marrakech 


marrakech - of the riads (courtyard mansions), the oases, the buzzing marketplace, the winding streets, the cul-de-sacs, the minarets, the carpets, the horse buggies, the moorish arches, the cous-cous... one middle eastern romance waiting to be discovered over and over again.


where to stay : again, plenty. amanjena banks on aman charm, but la mamounia is the definitive grande dame, more so after a long and exhaustive renovation.


51. ramble through luang prabang  


luang prabang? a world-heritage town on the mekong, mixing french with the indochinese. think og vintage cars, bustling markets, meditative monks, gold leaf pagodas, hidden waterfalls, forested hills, et al.


where to stay : luang prabang is waking up to the discerning tourist and offers some great choices - la residence phou vao, the apsara, three nagas, and most importantly, amantaka.

Sunday, October 31, 2010

100 journeys before i die : 70-61

recap!!!

100. goa with friends
99. wild wadi water park, dubai
98. taj mahal by the full moon
97. amsterdam's red light district
96. bhaang in jaisalmer
95. coffee plantations in coorg
94. jogging in central park, new york
93. crossing the panama canal
92. driving on the autobahn, germany, austria and switzerland
91. dev deepavali, varanasi
90. driving a vintage in udaipur
89. walking through pondicherry'e french quarter
88. fly over mount everest
87. roller coaster riding at six flags great adventure
86. fete de la musique in paris
85. switzerland, yash raj style
84. ride on the tgv
83. incan and mayan ruins in central america
82. cross the karlov most
81. ecology lessons at lake baykal
80. ajanta and ellora
79. wander through bundi
78. club hopping in tallinn
77. under the andalusian sun
76. yunnan
75. cross the danube in budapest
74. durga puja in calcutta
73. amazon rainforest
72. the beijing-tibet railroad
71. learn tango in buenos aires

70-61 follow

70.  visit the rann of kachchh

kutch is special, trust me. it has the routine colourful village with colourful people with colourful crafts, great gujarati thalis, and the option of running from beaches at mandvi to the salt flats of the rann in three hours, by the way of desert, villages, palaces and even a spectacular set of hills (kalo dungar). shopping too is fun.

where to stay : shaam e sarhad resort is the local answer to jaipur's chokhi dhani, but with more attractive non-highwayside locationing.




69.  hike through the canadian rockies 

the rocky mountains are sort of juvenile dreams. amrika, one could call it. but as american slopes remain over-run with yuppie tourists in vail, aspen and jackson hole, the canadian rockies remain far more pristine, much more people free, and twice as spectacular. think of snowcapped mountains, dense pine forests and glacial lakes. hiking through these, dream enough.


where to stay : hike means camp. otherwise, settle down in four seasons, banff.



68.  climb borobudur 


i'm a sucker for the esoteric. now imagine java's lush mountainous countryside. then, think of esoteric buddhism. now make a step pyramid, with exotic friezes and countless meditating buddhas capped in latticed stone canopies. very lara croft like.


where to stay : amanjiwo



67.  shikara ride on the dal lake 


i'm thankful for this one. having done kashmir before it became un-do-able again. kashmir is as beautiful as all of bollywood and half of urdu poetry claims it to be, and theres nothing better than simply lazing on a shikara as it floats along on the placid dal lake. make the effort and do it around sunrise, with a light mist over the lake, and the mountains in a shade of blue.


where to stay : on the houseboats, ofcourse!



66.  visit sigiriya 


sigiriya is just a good excuse to run through sri lanka. its an island, its exotic, its beautiful, and blah blah blah. sigiriya happens to be its best archaeological site.


where to stay : amangalla and amanwella, hands down.



65.  luxury safari lodge in kruger park 



kruger park is south africa's largest, so you can count on a lot of wildlife viewing. add to it a collection of the finest lodges on earth (and also some of the most expensive) and you get your cheetah views with a glass of sauvignon blanc in hand.


where to stay : singita grumeti reserves, which has been topping the worlds best lists since time immemorial, and looks drop dead gorgeous.



64.  oscar niemeyer's brasilia 


purely architectural whim, this one, but brasilia is a pure homage to oscar niemeyer and his architectural legacy.


where to stay : not really a luxury haven, but brasilia is still good. royal tulip brasilia alvorada looks funky and has a lakeside location.



63.  spot the nilgiri tahr in idukki 


idukki is probably south india's most scenic district, high in the western ghats, with famous locales like munnar and periyar to its credit. even more enchanting is the eravikulam national park and its rollying hillside, home to the nilgiri tahr, an endemic and endangered species, as well as the toda tribals, and the once-in-twelve years neelkurunji flowers, which give the mountains a blue-wash.


where to stay : taj's thekkady property is the best bet, but comfy at max.



62.  go shopping in milan 


does this even need explanation? you're let loose in milan, with boutiques, left, right and centre! and that includes all you can wear, sleep/sit on, eat, drink and drive.


where to stay : bulgari hotel milano, to maximize the design quotient, but milan has no shortage of fine places to stay. other greats are the park hyatt, the chedi and the four seasons.



61.  cycle in bled and triglav national park


if a picture postcard nation needed a picture postcard district, bled and the neighbouring triglav national park would be it. as if the country is not beautiful and charming enough, bled offers a blue lake in the middle of the julian alps, complete with a mid-lake-island-church, while triglav park has a host of amazing places to see, like the breathtaking vintgar gorge. best explored on cycle, which cuts time and flab.


where to stay : slovenia is a tiny country, but doesnt boast of hi-fi luxury. villa bled is an option, or you can opt for one of the more convenient hotels in ljubljana, the capital (another pretty place).

current score - 11/40