the other deep blue

how do you deviate from the usual exotic paradises that most beach resorts claim to be? here's a sampling...

1. warapuru, itacare, brazil
anoushka hempel meets brazilian rainforest meets virgin beaches. extraordinary, if purely for the design value. soon to open, sure to shock.
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2. vamizi island, quirimbas archipelago, mozambique
mozambique? well, its a lesser known cousin to seychelles and mauritius, but its islands are equally gorgeous and even more virgin, and vamizi is perfect as a luxe-eco-exotic lodge.
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3. villa dubrovnik, dubrovnik, croatia
a dramatic cliffside setting to the most exotic of all mediterranean destinations, with the turquoise waters of the adriatic below and the white minimalism of the sleek hotel above.
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4. bedarra, great barrier reef, australia
another piece of minimalism washed ashore. i'm not complaining. especially if you're sipping a martini while sauntering in your plunge pool while gazing at a sunset over the pacific. the wood cabins in the forests by the beach is the best way to go back to nature without the heartache.
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5. the datai, langkawi, malaysia
a local legend, and for good reason. asian neo-traditional design meets lush rainforest meets pristine beaches and usual cliches for exotic seaside paradisos, but with ghm flair.
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6. amanwana, moyo island, indonesia
aman resorts at its seaside best? arguable, but that doesnt alter the fact that the place is amazing. tents with sleek interiors and service+location to match.
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7. w retreat and spa, maldives
how do you even attempt being different in a place which has typified lagoon resorts? by funking it out. w brings in the jazz, retains the luxe and lets out the cliches. works for me.
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8. parrot cay, turks and caicos
the carribean is a step further than maldives - its even tougher to be different in a place with such easy access to americans. yet parrot cay retains the historical aspect without being kitschy. the neo-colonial look is not exactly path breaking, but refreshing enough to be loved.
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9. amphityron hotel, navplion, greece
the aegean beckons with a historic city as a backdrop and a modern hotel as the host. great design, awesome location. greek without the white plaster-blue dome route.
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10. le sirenuse, positano, italy
positano in itself is a twistedly awesome place to stay - a hillside that tumbles down to the sea. before the water, on the slope, is an italian legend that looks like one, but has a refreshing design sensibility on the inside. and its luxe enough to write volumes on.
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11. ada, bodrum, turkey
middle eastern mansion meets mediterranean seas. pure sexy.
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12. hix island house, vieques, puerto rico
retrosexy, simply put. my kinda place.
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13. katakies hotel, santorini, greece
if you have to go the white-blue-greek island line, then this one's like no other. stands out because its so well standing in.
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14. rayavadee, krabi, thailand
another south east asian legend. steers clear of phuket, keeps the asian touch, binges on luxury and even has a grotto set restaurant to boot. and the isthumus setting? ah, that too.
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15. fort tiracol, goa, india
historic fort restored to its portuguese brightness, overlooking the arabian sea? goa at its different-est.
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seclude

Back after a pretty long time.

This time around, its looking at places which offer seclusion. And a jaw-droppingly awesome one at that.

1. 360 Leti, Uttarakhand Himalayas, India
Himalayas is good enough. Add to that a journey that involves a couple of hours of hiking to get to the place, and seductive little stone cottages with drop dead gorgeous views. I've already started saving up for this one.
Hotel Site

2. Bangaram Island Resort, Lakshadweep, India
Basically a set of clean rooms which occupy the last bit of virgin paradise on planet earth. Thank the setting, or the spartanism would have made you homicidal, especially after the parting cheque.
Hotel Site

3. Juvet Landscape Hotel, Norway
Minimalist wood boxes with floor to ceiling glass facades + Stunning Norwegian Landscape + No sign of human habitation all around = Multiple Orgasm.
Hotel Site

4. Explora en Patagonia - Hotel Salto Chico, Patagonia, Chile
Another perennial favourite with a location thats stunning enough to make you want to give up everything on earth, and luxury to help you in your quest.
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5. Explora en Atacama - Hotel de Larache, Atacama Desert, Chile
The driest desert on the planet, its awe-inspiring landscape and the stylish luxury of another of explora's noble renderings to mankind. If only somebody had the brains and sensitivity to do that with the unexplored swathes of India.
Hotel Site

6. Vigilus Mountain Resort, Tirol, Italy
Whats more charming than a stylish Italian Alpine Hideaway? One that is reached via a short walk from a hamlet accesible only by cable car. And the views... ah...
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7. Ultima Thule Lodge, Alaska, USA
For a name that sounds like it, Ultima Thule lives it up. No cell coverage and access only via red planes, along with a protected Alaskan wilderness. Makes you forgive the hotel's not-so-bad but horribly-americanized-rustic design sensibilities.
Hotel Site

8. Turtle Island, Fiji
A South-Pacific legend, this tropical gem is served only by seaplanes or boat. Getting there is a short ride, but getting aways seems impossible, if only for the 'Blue Lagoon' type natural extravaganza it beholds.
Hotel Site

9. Denis Island, Seychelles
As if a relatively obscure Indian Ocean Creole island wasn't enough, this gem is located on a smaller isle that has just recently been upgraded to a '6-flights-a-week' status. All luxuries present. Just hope all the flights stand cancelled.
Hotel Site

10. El Questro Homestead, Northern Australia
All those who have seen Australia (the Luhrmann-Jackman-Kidman one) know how gorgeously desolate Oz's northern territories can be. Add to that a romantic collection of ranches equipped with tropical gardens, balinese beds and even a couple of tennis courts.
Hotel Site

11. Shompole, Great Rift Valley, Kenya
Seductive forms, cliffside setting, african wilderness, safari chic, private pools. Sex me up big time. And an ultra luxe property.
Hotel Site

And here's a sampling of places that could've done much better in terms of locational attributes.

1. Four Seasons Mumbai - Worli doesn't deserve it. Yet.
2. ITC Sonar, Kolkata - A heartfelt favourite, yet it sits in a stinky marshland, opposite a garish 'Science City', not to mention an urban highway on two sides. A rare case of context not following the (rather fine) architecture.
3. ITC Grand Central, Mumbai - Another ITC folly. Yes, its central. But what views does the country's tallest hotel offer? The central railway line? or maybe the more authentic dhobi ghats? or the chaos on the Bombay street? bafflements galore.
4. The Manor, Delhi - Friends Colony is posh, agreed, but the trunk rail line to Bombay behind the backyard isn't quite the uppity thing. Spoils the otherwise amazingly serene ambience.
5. Radisson, Delhi - A literal plonk. Think Haryanvi urban village. Think illegal construction brick walls. Think a flyover. Think airport trauma. And just add a Radisson in between. Voila, even by the chain's low standards.

Hangover

Hangovers in the hospitality world. Basically heritage structures, adapted as modern hotels. Here's looking at those who are the most succesful. And later, a look at the one;s who were least. Indian properties only.

Success Stories

1. Le Dupleix, Pondicherry

The best place in the pretty de la Cite. A converted mansion which is chic in the creole sense. French and Tamil influences filter down to a very likeable traditional chic through this intimate little hotel which has now become the toast of town. Speaking of toast, the food is supposedly delightful. At around 5k per night, its excellent value for money. 

2. The Malabar House, Kochi

As intimate a place as any. A colonial mansion in Fort Kochi, coupled with all the trappings of a boutique hotel. The hotel pushes all the right buttons - a sexy pool, traditional elements, contemporary outlook and the perfect amount of exclusivity that makes it border on obscurity but not quite. However, it is a tad expensive, and there are too few rooms to savour.

3. Devigarh, Delwara

All hail. The mother of all boutique hotels - heritage or otherwise, Devigarh is a legend in hospitality design. Previously a typically pretty Rajasthani Fort, it is still that. But deviating from the traditional stance of equating heritage forts and palaces with kitschy museums where people can sleep in, Devigarh is brazenly clean, sharp, minimalist, luxurious and all the other words that will make the designer in you inspired. Awesomeness redefined.

4. The Wildflower Hall, Mashobra

It'll never win contemporary design awards, but the traditionalism of the most luxurious hotel in all of the Himalayas has a lot to offer in 'theme design', if it may be called. Its a perfect colonial hangover, and all the more luxurious. Wood panellings, chandeliers, portraits of proud sahibs, fireplaces et al, and the most stunning views with each. This former hall of residence of Lord Kitchener will have the departed spirit wishing he were still alive.

5. Umaid Bhavan Palace, Jodhpur

Taj have been extremely temperamental in terms of design. While a few are excellently exemplary (Taj Mahal Bombay's quirkiness), others remain woefully idiotic (the Delhi Taj Mahal's eyesore-full lobby). At Umaid Bhavan, it hits all the right buttons by staying away from any. The iconic art deco architecture of the last grand palace of the world has been well maintained, and how. It is the most atmospheric period piece of luxury you can ever stay in. You'll end up feeling like that diva who ambles around in the bedsheet before finding her little black dress, or a marble tub in the centre of a grand bathroom to soak in.

The Fucked-ups

1. Neemrana Fort

Neemrana, to me, seems the most overhyped design accomplishment (if it truly is that) on the planet. There is absolutely nothing new or inspiring or even remotely engaging in this ramshackle collection of antique furniture amid a fort a lit by diwali lights. And its even more irritating once it comes to the prices. Its spartan at best, if not cheesy.

2. Taj Lake Palace, Udaipur

Agreed, its a heritage property, and that its the most jawdroppingly romantic hotel I could ever think of, but the kitschyness of it all is just homicidal. One would think he's paying just for staring at the wall paintings, or the well collected but overbearing collection of Jodhpur manufactured antiques. Its an excellent place, but with decor thats blown its acceptable top.

3. The Claridges, New Delhi

A well meant effort but a classic lost plot. This art deco gem on Aurungzeb Road has no seeming thread that binds the hotels decor together. The rooms aren't bad looking, but you wont expect that from a 50 year old veteran in the city's most exclusive district. Plain disappointing.

4. The Oberoi Grand, Kolkata

A hotel that needs a desperate facelift. Its an absolutely stunning hotel, in terms of both service and ambience, but where Wildflower Hall succeeds, the historic Grand falls squat on its face. Yes, its supposed to be understandably themed to its history, but not to the point of outdatedness.

5. The Raj Palace, Jaipur

Another classic case of a hotel that draws guests by promising them more kitsch than sex could ever be. Its just over the top. It suffocates you with all its 'painful recreation' of the 'decadence' of a bygone era. And to say that the world's most expensive suite has a ferrari bathroom is seemingly pointless, as the miniature painting behind the bedstead is just too eyecatching to allow ferrari its moments. An insult to discerning taste, the place is perfect for halfwit westerners who are looking for an excuse to show off their wealth.